Virginia- Where wines flow through history

Today, Virginia’s quality wines earn the respect of great winemakers and sommeliers all around the world, and with over 280 wineries, Virginia comes in fifth in the list of wineries per state in the US. But like in all great stories, behind this glorious achievement lies lots of sweat and tears.

It began when the earliest settlers of Jamestown planted vines in an attempt to produce a cash crop by utilising the vital soils of the New World. Many of the early colonists to Virginia came from England with the objective of finding new lands to plant cash crops, especially vines. However, the early Virginia colonists soon discovered that those unfamiliar grapes produced poor quality wines, reflecting unpleasant taste as compared to their European counterparts.

Early Failures

Early colonists, commissioned European winemakers, and even Thomas Jefferson, encountered difficulties which stalled their plans to establish wine-making grapes as a cash crop in Virginia. However, these roadblocks never deterred the spirit of innovation and drive to make Virginia a successful wine state.

After giving up on utilising Virginia’s native vines, the colonists decided to import a variety of French vines. In 1619, during the meeting of the first legislative assembly of the New World, the House of Burgesses passed Acte 12, which required every male household in Virginia to plant ten vines of the imported vinifera grapes for the purpose of growing and making wine.

The Endeavours of Frenchman and Jefferson

After a century of failed attempts by colonists to produce quality wine from native grapes, the General Assembly commissioned Frenchman Andrew Estave in 1770, naming him the official winemaker and viticulturist for Virginia. Estave studied the soil in Virginia for two years before he began planting 100 acres of European vine, vitus vinifera at Jockey’s Neck outside of Williamsburg.

Like the colonists before him, Estave’s efforts failed too. He believed the reason for his failure was because the vines were too fragile for Virginia’s climate.

Thomas Jefferson, who is regarded as America’s first wine connoisseur, was passionate about making Virginia a great wine growing state. Along with George Washington, George Mason, and approximately 25 other early influential leaders, Jefferson started the Virginia Wine Company, whose aim was to finally establish grapes as cash crop in the state. But while Andrew Estave dealt with the vine crop failures on the eastern side of the state, Jefferson began experiencing his own frustrations with viticulture.

In 1773, he gave 2,000 acres of land adjacent to his home at Monticello to Italian viticulturist, Filippo Mazzei, and worked with him to plant the European Vitis vinifera vines. After careful study and research, they found some early success in their cultivation efforts, but this positive turn was unfortunately short-lived.Today, you can still visit the grounds where Jefferson and Mazzei attempted to grow the vines, which are now home  the aptly named Jefferson Vineyards.

However, like most great men, Jefferson was not deterred by failures. In 1801, he was elected the President of the US and is said to have spent 10,000 USD on wine production during his administration, considered a vast fortune in that time. He continued to persevere, pursuing his passion to see Virginia wines become successful. Though his own crops did not find success, his influence and tenacity inspired winemakers in Virginia in the future.

Success of a Hybrid Grape

In 1817, Dr. Daniel N. Norton from Richmond, which is the capital of Virginia, began developing his own grape which combined the Virginia-native Vitis aestivalis vine with common European grape varieties. His hybrid grape was resilient against common North American pests, survived Virginia’s climate zone, and produced high quality, dry table wine with intense flavours. In fact, a Norton red wine bottled by the Monticello Wine Company received an international award at the Vienna World’s Fair in 1873.

By 1890, Virginia was producing 461,000 gallons of wine. But several events in American history halted the progress of the Virginia wine industry, which included The Civil War, prohibition, and then the Great Depression of 1930s. By the time the 1930s ended, all of Norton’s vines had been destroyed to comply with Prohibition laws, and the lack of funding during Great Depression also halted the growth of Virginia’s wines industry.

Revival by Rausse

During 1960s, Virginia saw a renewed interest in winemaking. In 1976, Italian winemaker Gianni Zonin decided to expand his wine business internationally. The Zonin family has been making wine since 1821 and is famous in Europe for their winemaking ability.

Gianni Zonin sent his family’s Vineyard Manager, Gabriele Rausse to Virginia to grow European grapes, just as many had attempted before him. But unlike the early colonists, Rausse found great success in his endeavour; becoming the first to successfully plant Vitis vinifera in Virginia, creating what is now known as Barboursville Vineyards.

However, what is greater than Rausse’s success towards wine making in Virginia was his attitude of not keeping his newfound industry secrets on establishing vines in Virginia to himself. Rausse consulted with many other winery startups to share his knowledge and expertise; allowing for the continued growth and success of Virginia’s viticulture in the process.

The Wine State

In 1980, the number of wineries in Virginia grew to six. By 1995, there were 26 wineries in Virginia. The number climbed to 107 in 2005. Today over 280 wineries are dotted throughout the US state, from the coastal plains to the
Appalachian Mountains.

Rausse now works as Monticello’s Director of Gardens and Grounds, and because of his impressive achievements in winemaking, he is known as, ‘The Father of the Modern Virginia Wine Industry.’

The widespread presence of wineries in Virginia is an ode to the toil and dream of many Virginians. You can explore a few of these wineries on a trip to this wonderful state in the US.