Himachal's Wine Revolution

A quiet wine and cider revolution is brewing in the state of Himachal Pradesh. The state is known as a tourists’ paradise and is famous for its green apples. Himachal Pradesh Horticulture Produce Marketing & Processing Corporation (HPMC) is scripting a story of transition which could be better described as a case of circular economy in action. The state is busy adding new value to its fruit-based economy through policy changes and innovations. It now produces full-bodied wines and ciders, which add to the delight of both tourists and the local population.

Here is an in-depth report by veteran journalist, Ashwani Sharma.

They say one rotten apple can spoil the entire crop but here is a fascinating story of how rotting apples and other local fruits have turned conventional wisdom on its head. The state of Himachal Pradesh is scripting a new story which has added special value to its fruit-based economy, through policy changes and innovations. Enter wines and ciders – a new delight for those who love to chill- out – and taste the delicious drinks extracted from fine varieties of Himalayan fruits and flowers.

Till about two-and-a-half decades ago, travellers were accustomed to seeing tonnes of rotting apples dotting the foothills of Parwanoo – the gateway to Himachal Pradesh from Chandigarh. The lot of surplus fruits were usually filled in gunny bags and dumped along the national highways for lack of suitable processing facilities, as also for paucity of proper market linkages.

The architect of this turnaround was the  Himachal Pradesh Horticulture Produce Marketing & Processing Corporation (HPMC) – the sole government agency procuring all processable grades of apples from farmers under the Market Intervention Scheme (MIS) leading to avoidable loss to the farmers’ produce.

Three decades down the line, the scene has been transformed. Today, the drive from Parwanoo to Shimla on a well laid four-lane journey brings to the visitors a soothing new experience with innumerable outlets selling not just fruit juices, apple jelly and jams but also the choicest variety of pure fruit wines and ciders; nicely packaged and sold at numerous outlets.

Sweet Success

The phenomenal success of the state’s fruit wines and ciders, encouraged by liberal policies that allow departmental and general stores in Himachal Pradesh to stock these products, has given new wings to the Himachal’s fruit economy, perhaps hardly imagined by stakeholders, and alcohol lovers.

Some of the wines—drawn from pear, apricot, plum, cherry, apple, strawberry, litchi and mango, apart from famous flower varieties like Rhododendron, offer a delicious, viscous sipping treat –ideally suited to the surroundings and climate of the state. The fortified wines of Himachal Pradesh are definitely the heart and soul of the hardworking hill people.

Admits Himachal’s young Excise and Taxation Commissioner, Rohan Chand Thakur, IAS, “It all began from scratch. Some young entrepreneurs who were into making pickles, juices and jams ventured into manufacturing wines and ciders.  Around 30 years down the line, this sector has come a long way, and has huge potential too.”

Himachal Pradesh is definitely turning out to be an emerging leader in fruit wines. The wines —classified as fruit or sweet wines with mild alcoholic content from 8 or 9 percent to 14 percent, are made out of locally grown fruits, including apple, orange, plum, pear, peach, kiwi and strawberry. They have become popular in the state of Himachal Pradesh.

In terms of volume, says Thakur, the share of wines and cider in the overall revenue collections of the state is not more than Rs. five to six crores but the department estimates a quantum jump in the next few years. The department has totally liberalised licenses for production, storage and sales. The share of locally produced wines in Himachal Pradesh is 23,750 boxes, which comes to around 2.85 lakh bottles against 3,268 boxes i.e., 39,222 bottles of imported wines.

“Significantly, this is one sector that has grown during the Covid-19 lockdown period. Lots of youth who lost their jobs in metropolis and other big cities, have returned to Himachal Pradesh to start business in wines, both in retail and distribution,” reveals Thakur