Whisky Crafted by Culture

While the whisky-making process might sound straightforward, the choice of ingredients and casks, as well as the conditions of ageing, significantly influence the final product. This is also true of the terroir and the culture of the place where it is consumed. Shinji Fukuyo who takes the legacy of Suntory very seriously, has crafted many leading whisky brands and achieved success with Oaksmith in India, a testimony to his global understanding.

• • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • Shalini Kumar

With the amount of international travel that India’s young generation and corporate executives are engaged in, it wouldn’t have taken much time for Japanese whisky to get added to the list of their favourites. But, there is always a shortage of Japanese whiskies and this is due to the limited number of distilleries in Japan that presents a big challenge. Despite expanding production capacity and building new warehouses, a leading company like Suntory too has been struggling to meet the global demand for its whiskies.This includes the rapidly growing Indian market. For Shinji Fukuyo, the Chief Blender of Suntory in Japan, who is a revered figure in the world of whisky, known for his unparalleled expertise and deep understanding of the craft, the challenge demands a quick solution. With over three decades of experience at Suntory, Shinji has been instrumental in shaping the company’s renowned whisky portfolio, which includes iconic brands like Yamazaki, Hakushu and Hibiki. His journey in whisky-making began with a scientific curiosity and a dedication to perfecting the art of blending, where he emphasises harmony and balance—principles deeply rooted in Japanese culture. Shinji’s meticulous approach to selecting and combining different whiskies has elevated brand Suntory to global acclaim, making it a symbol of excellence in the whisky industry. Under Shinji’s guidance, The House of Suntory has continued to innovate while respecting traditional techniques, a balance that reflects his philosophy of preserving the essence of Japanese Whisky. His ability to craft complex yet harmonious flavours has garnered him international recognition, with many of his blends receiving prestigious awards. Shinji’s dedication to quality and his pursuit of perfection are evident in every bottle that bears the ‘Suntory’ name, making him not just a Chief Blender, but a true artisan in the world of whisky. His work continues to influence and inspire both seasoned connoisseurs and new whisky enthusiasts around the globe. He has been behind the launch of Oaksmith, a whisky tailored specifically for the Indian market, launched in 2019.

Absorbing Indian Preferences

Oaksmith is a blend of the best of three countries, Scotland, USA and Japan and has been meticulously crafted to suit the Indian palate. With over a dozen visits to India in the last seven to eight years, Shinji has gained a deep understanding of the local market and its unique preferences. His connection to India, however, traces back to the early 2000s when he first visited Delhi and Mumbai as part of his work in Glasgow with Heriot-Watt and Morrison Bowmore Distillers, a subsidiary of Suntory at the time and now a part of Suntory Global Spirits. These experiences, combined with his extensive knowledge of whisky-making, have shaped his approach to developing new expressions that resonate with consumers in diverse markets. Shinji’s journey into the world of whisky was not a sudden decision but rather a gradual progression fuelled by his passion and expertise. His time in Glasgow, where he worked with Morrison Bowmore Distillers Ltd., provided him with invaluable insights into the craft. These experiences laid the foundation for his later role as the Chief Blender at Suntory, a position that comes with immense responsibility. As the fifth person to hold this title, Shinji is entrusted with upholding and expanding Suntory’s rich legacy. His daily work involves nosing, tasting and ensuring the quality of existing products like Hibiki, Yamazaki, Hakushu and Kakubin, as well as developing new ones like Oaksmith.

Creation of Oaksmith 

Oaksmith was born out of Shinji’s recognition of the distinct culinary and cultural landscape of India. Understanding that Indian consumers often enjoy whisky with spicy foods and prefer it diluted with water, soda, or even Coca-Cola, Shinji set out to create a whisky that would retain its aroma and flavour even when mixed. He recognised that Indian consumers appreciate a whisky with a ‘kick’, a characteristic he carefully incorporated into Oaksmith, making it a whisky that is mild and smooth yet robust enough to stand up to the bold flavours of Indian cuisine. Elaborating, Shinji says, “While the whisky-making process might sound straightforward, the choice of ingredients and casks, as well as the conditions of ageing, significantly influence the final product. For example, the use of American white oak, Spanish sherry casks or Japanese oak can impart unique flavours to the whisky.” The process of creating Oaksmith, and indeed any whisky, is complex and requires a deep understanding of both taste and aroma. Shinji’s approach to whisky-crafting is informed by his belief that each brand has its history and that new products must be tailored to the market they intend to cater. Sharing a story related to the process of creation of Toki, he says, “For instance, when developing Toki, a whisky designed for the American market, I prioritised mixability to suit the country’s cocktail culture.” Recently, a new Hibiki expression, marking the 100th anniversary of Suntory Whisky was launched by Fukuyo. This version of Hibiki, aged for 21 years, features a pronounced Japanese oak character, achieved by omitting the usual sherry cask ageing to enhance the oak’s spicy notes. The result is a whisky that is smooth and pale but rich in flavor.

Significance of Terroir 

The terroir is very important in whisky-making. For instance, Suntory’s two main distilleries, Yamazaki and Hakushu, produce distinct whiskies shaped by their respective climates and water sources. This understanding of the impact of nature on whisky has been crucial in Shinji’s work, particularly in markets like India, where the environment and culinary traditions differ significantly from those in Japan or Scotland. And notwithstanding the limited number of distilleries in Japan, he has succeeded in creating a diverse range of whiskies by utilising different types of grains, casks and distillation methods.

The Indian Pathway 

Looking at the future, Shinji is committed to expanding appreciation for Suntory’s whiskies in India, a market he finds both surprising and vital. The success of Oaksmith and other House of Suntory products in India underscores the dynamic nature of the market and the growing demand for high-quality whiskies in India. While he remains focused on developing new products that cater to Indian consumers, he also acknowledges the broader global trends and the need to balance tradition with innovation. Despite the immense responsibility, Shinji finds joy in his work. For him, whisky is not just about craftsmanship but also about the enjoyment it brings to everyday life. His love for whisky fuels his dedication, and he relishes the challenges that come with the role. Crafting whisky is a complex process, one that requires a deep understanding of both taste and aroma to achieve a harmonious balance. At home, he prefers to relax with a simple glass of Kakubin, a light, casual whisky that allows him to unwind without the need for intense focus. This philosophy of balancing responsibility with enjoyment has guided his illustrious career at Suntory, where he continues to push the boundaries of what whisky can be.