SAA 25-THINKPAD 3: India Behind the Bar - Evolving Tastes, Talents and Techniques

India’s bars have come a long way. Ten years ago, the word “cocktail” meant something colourful and sweet. Today, it might arrive clarified, smoked, aged or redistilled, but more importantly, it arrives balanced, considered and confident that blends tradition and modernity. That transformation was at the centre of a high-energy ThinkPad titled ‘India Behind the Bar: Evolving Tastes, Talents and Techniques.’

Moderated by Rakshay Dhariwal, Managing Director of Maya Pistola Agavepura & Pass Code Hospitality, the conversation featured industry stalwarts representing diverse facets of India’s hospitality and spirits world. These included Amit Sangwan, General Manager at Novotel Ahmedabad; Nitin Tewari, Founder of BarTrender and Bar Kala & 30sixty; Santanu Chanda, Group Beverage Manager at PVR Ltd. and Dushyant Tanwar, Portfolio Advocate at Suntory Global Spirits. Over an hour they dissected this exciting evolution, highlighting the passion, challenges and immense potential that define the country’s alcoholic beverage landscape.

By VIBHOOTI Bhatnagar

Reflecting on the rapid evolution of Indian bar culture, Rakshay Dhariwal noted how quickly things have changed. “We had a couple pioneering F&B bars that just focused on classic cocktails, maybe an Old Fashioned or two.” But today that blueprint looks quaint. Urban India now boasts neighbourhoods like GK-II and Vasant Vihar in Delhi, where there are “probably 20 outlets in each of the small colonies, each with a bar programme second to none,” he observed.

Bars have introduced sophisticated tools like rotovaps for infusions, inhouse ice programmes and craft cocktail techniques that create spiritforward drinks like Mezcal Negronis. “We’ve got a thriving ecosystem of creativity and craftsmanship,” Rakshay proudly declares.

What truly sets this evolution apart is the brave incorporation of India’s rich spice heritage into mixology. Kokum, saffron, turmeric, jaggery and native herbs such as gondaraj have found their way into custom cordials, shrubs and bitters, often crafted because certain liqueurs and bitters are unavailable domestically. “But apart from having spices, our land is so diverse. We’ve got Himalayan juniper, agave growing on the highlands of the Deccan Plateau that are making some award-winning great spirits,” Rakshay stated.

This leap into indigenous flavour reclaims the bar as a place of local identity where bartenders can be artisans of terroir rather than mere replicators of western templates.

Hospitality Is the Differentiator

While acknowledging the importance of craft and technique in 2025, Santanu Chanda firmly believes that “simplicity stands out at any given day, and you give the guest what they want.” “If a glass of water makes them happy, give them a glass of water. If a chilled bottle of beer makes them happy, give them a chilled bottle of beer.” He emphasises that while experimentation and craft are vital, staying “true to your core hospitality” is paramount.

This principle of craft being a baseline and hospitality an amplifier was repeated across responses. The best bars, the panel argued, are those that can pivot between intricate, technique-heavy serves and simple, well-executed classics in the span of a single shift.

Speed and efficiency matter too in real service environments where guests’ needs vary widely. Both Santanu and Dushyant Tanwar believe that speed is everything in a nightclub, while in a lobby bar the bartender’s most important instrument is reading a guest’s mood.

Nurturing New Talent

The industry’s growth has undeniably attracted a new wave of talent, eager to make their mark. However, this enthusiasm comes with its own set of expectations and challenges, as articulated by Nitin Tewari. “Young bartenders who are coming into the industry have a very good exposure to start with. They are seeing people doing great cocktails, using great techniques and have already done courses online because Instagram or social media has everything in excess.”

That knowledge means they’re no longer starting from zero but it can also build in them a desire for instant success which often clouds their appreciation for the years of hard work behind mastery “There’s nothing called a shortcut for anything. It has taken years of hard work for all these people to reach the level they have reached,” emphasised Nitin

The practical gap between theoretical knowledge and on-the-job execution is another critical area. As Nitin says, “It’s easy to remember recipe of daiquiri, but it’s very difficult to actually make a daiquiri for a guest sitting in front of you.” This highlights the importance of hands-on training, a cornerstone of Nitin’s academy where students are trained to execute proper builds under pressure. “We tell everyone to make every single cocktail with alcohol, taste it and understand it, because that’s how you will grow as a bartender,” he explains.

Human Economy of Bars

Staff retention in hospitality remains a strategic challenge amid increased access to opportunities and shifting priorities emphasising work-life balance.

“Campus interviews are not restricted to IHM these days,” Amit Sangwan noted, meaning talent can come from many places and can depart quickly. That makes intentional culture-building, not just competitive wages, a retention priority. “To keep them engaged just by offering them monetary value probably doesn’t help these days. They should get value for their time. They should feel proud,” he added.

This requires leadership to think from the perspective of the new generation, ensuring a “work-life balance has to be maintained.” The panel collectively reinforced that a leader’s role is to mentor, guide and create a supportive environment where talent can flourish, even if it means eventually moving on. “We as seniors should help them give a platform and accountability and empowerment to make them realize that being a bartender is not restricted just behind the bar,” explained Amit

Underlying this was a philosophy Santanu described as “unreasonable hospitality,” an inward-facing application of the guest-first ethic. Knowing a bartender’s name, asking after their family, creating visible career ladders, offering genuine mentorship and accountability, are the levers that keep staff committed beyond shortterm financial incentives

Hotels and multi-site groups must balance SOPs and training with human connection. Standardisation keeps beverage quality consistent across venues, but mentorship and empowerment keep people motivated and invested. The objective, as per Dushyant, isn’t to “retain them but train them.”

Business of Beverages

India’s market forces and regulations turn experiential marketing into a slow burn rather than an instant conversion. Unlike in the UK or the US, where a brand can run an online campaign, drive clicks and translate them into sales, or even host an activation and sell bottles on-site, the Indian ecosystem offers no such linear path. “In ours, it’s a much slower process,” stated Rakshay

Rakshay’s example of an event like ‘One Night in Toki-O’ illustrates how brand ideas take root over time. A guest might attend, post about it on social media and weeks later recall the brand at a bar shelf. “Maybe they’ll remember, this one night, let’s try Toki,” Rakshay said candidly. That chain reaction, untrackable in real time, defines the unique rhythm of Indian brand-building.

This is in contrast with Europe, where “if Suntory is leading an experience, there is also an option to get the consumer to buy the product on the spot, which becomes a very big challenge in India.” The absence of that transactional moment shifts the focus from sales conversion to cultivating long-term loyalty and recognition.

For Dushyant, the answer lies in storytelling. “When you make that connect with the consumer and appeal to their empathy or their sense of nostalgia, it helps them become brand loyalists, which is the ultimate goal of storytelling.” The return, in other words, is emotional before it becomes financial.

“ROI is a little tough but the amount of effort that we put in is quantifiable,” he explained, suggesting that engagement, feedback and social mentions all add up to a measurable form of advocacy. Programmes like ‘Friends of Laphroaig’ translate that advocacy into numbers; the more signups, the more evidence that the brand has reached and influenced consumers.

Each event, workshop and storytelling becomes a seed that germinates slowly until it shows up as a purchase decision months later.

Navigating Diverse Consumer Needs

Hotels, particularly five-star establishments, face the unique challenge of crafting bar programmes that resonate with an incredibly diverse clientele. Adding a hotelier’s perspective, Amit said, “hotels are meant to cater to all sort of guests, be it somebody on staycation, leisure, corporate, a wedding guest or an FIT, foreigner, expats, Indian, whosoever it is.” His solution lies in the team’s ability to “check the pulse of that hotel” and understand the mood of each guest.

A hotel bar must simultaneously be a social hub, retreat and reliable service point. The same venue may need to serve a comforting beer to someone a little tired and simultaneously deliver a celebratory, photogenic cocktail to a wedding party. The bartender, in this context, becomes a crucial interpreter of guest needs, product knowledge and situational judgement.

Amit stressed the need for “little more attention towards the body language” and accessing the real need. “The maximum flexibility and flamboyancy is expected from a bartender or the guy who is standing behind the bar.” This means being able to quickly assess whether to upsell an elaborate cocktail or not, prioritising guest satisfaction above all.

Adding another layer to this, Nitin emphasised the unique “personality” that each successful bar cultivates. “The reason someone goes to a bar is because every bar has its own personality or the connect that it builds with the consumer,” he said.

Differentiating between “experiential bars” like Ice Bar that might attract a one-time visit for photos and truly “successful bars” where “people have gone regularly,” Nitin described the winning formula a combination of the bartender’s ability to connect with patrons and the quality of the product served.

As Rakshay summed it up, aspiring bar owners should focus on being “hospitable. You need to serve your clients to the best of your ability,” rather than chasing awards or transient trends.

Entrepreneurial Trail

The conversation then shed light on the evolving but demanding landscape of India’s cocktail and bar culture where passion often collides with the tough realities of entrepreneurship.

Dushyant’s journey served as a candid reflection of this balance. Before joining Suntory Global Spirits, he cofounded Spice Root Bitters, a project that began as a personal passion and matured into a five-year pursuit marked by perseverance. “It was a very difficult journey for me. We sat on that project for some five years before we found an investor who actually recognised our passion,” Dushyant recalled.

Bitters, being a niche product, presented steep market entry challenges, with distribution confined to Goa and Maharashtra. Despite these constraints, Dushyant viewed the venture as a statement of intent. “At least with that product, we had the mindset that this is our calling card. This will show the industry what we are capable of.” While the brand recovered its initial investment, it did not fetch profits. Yet, Dushyant remains cautiously optimistic. “Hopefully, in the coming years, it will grow into a bigger thing.”

Highlighting the constant tug between ambition and burnout, a paradox faced by many in hospitality, Rakshay remarked, “The grass is always greener on the other side,” describing how professionals often move from barback to bartender, then to manager and entrepreneur, only to confront the harsh realities of running a business. “And then what hits you is a truck,” he quipped. “Then the first thing that you’re thinking, how do I get back into service?”

Dushyant resonated with this, admitting, “You sort of want to get back to what was familiar what your passion was.” For many, bartending itself was the passion and the demands of entrepreneurship, while rewarding, can sometimes overshadow that initial love.

India’s Spirits Future

Towards the end of the session, the conversation took a passionate turn when discussing the untapped potential of India’s native spirits. Nitin championed local gems like Feni and Mahua, stating, “I’m a huge promoter of Indian beverages like feni or mahua but unfortunately the ecosystem doesn’t support these things right now.” He articulated a vision. “If these fenis were available across India at a right price point, they would have been definitely the big thing.”

Nitin believes that India already possesses a wealth of “storytelling” material for its indigenous alcohols, comparable to any global brand. However, the current challenge lies in accessibility and a lack of consumer education. “India is still a country where people see the colour of whisky and say whether it’s good or bad,” he observed, underscoring the deepseated misconceptions that need to be addressed. His personal motivation for engaging with social media was to educate people. “At least people should know what’s the difference between a rum, whisky and a gin, because for most of the people in this country, it’s all the same.”

The panel envisioned a future where these indigenous spirits, can be showcased at duty-free stores and from there, slowly claim their place on the global stage, showcasing India’s diverse terroir and rich cultural heritage.