Margaux’s Twin Philosophies of Bordeaux Excellence

In the heart of Margaux, where finesse and fragrance define Bordeaux’s most graceful expressions, Château Marquis d’Alesme and Château Labégorce stand as compelling reflections of the appellation’s diversity. While Marquis d’Alesme enchants with its exotic, perfumed style shaped by centuries of heritage and meticulous craftsmanship, Labégorce offers a traditional Margaux profile of refined, balanced and quietly powerful. Together, these two estates tell a story of Margaux’s past and present, where tradition meets interpretation in every glass. MARJOLAINE Maurice de Coninck, Director General, Château Marquis d'Alesme and Château Labégorce, Margaux, elaborates on their distinct identities, writes BISHAN Kumar.

The Grand Crus Classés of 1855 remains one of the most influential wine classifications in the world, a ranking that continues to shape perceptions of Bordeaux nearly two centuries later. Created at the request of Emperor Napoleon III for the Exposition Universelle de Paris, the classification was designed to showcase France’s finest wines to an international audience like that of India recently.

During the Grand Crus Classés of 1855 delegation’s visit to India, Château Marquis d’Alesme and Château Labégorce were amongst the estates showcased. While they share Margaux’s classified-growth heritage, each expresses a distinct identity. Elaborating on the distinction, Marjolaine says, “It is important to clarify that Château Labégorce is not classified as a Grand Cru Classé, unlike Château Marquis d’Alesme. This distinction is not linked to terroir quality, but rather to history.”

Marquis d’Alesme & Labégorce

These are two distinct, high-quality Margaux estates now owned by the Perrodo family since 2006, with Nathalie Perrodo leading their revitalisation, transforming them into significant Third Growth (3ème Cru Classé) properties known for elegance and terroir expression. Both emphasise organic practices and modern winemaking whilst remaining separate entities with distinct identities. Marquis d’Alesme, celebrated for its Dutch heritage (Becker) and recent extensive renovations, and Labégorce, which has undergone massive investment and transformation under the family’s stewardship, exemplify the Perrodos’ commitment to excellence.

Creating Distinct Identities

Château Labégorce was absent from the 1855 Classification due to a family crisis at that time. Yet its terroir clearly possessed the requisite potential. Without seeking to rank the two estates in terms of quality, this highlights a fundamental truth in Bordeaux: a Grand Cru is defined not only by its terroir, but also by the people who shape its destiny. Margaux itself is renowned for elegance, perfume and refinement rather than sheer power. In both the wines, the objective is indeed to preserve Margaux elegance.

“Château Marquis d’Alesme, which is a jewel, a garden of gravelly soils, is styled around Cabernet Sauvignon. Château Labégorce, on the other hand, produces a fruit-driven wine that is quickly approachable meant for sharing, with a better balance between Merlot and Cabernet,” Marjolaine explains, and adds, “Once again, it is important to clarify the framework. We are not discussing two Grand Crus Classés. Château Marquis d’Alesme Becker is a classified growth, while Château Labégorce Margaux is an estate closely affiliated with the classified-growth spirit.”

Safeguarding Individuality

As one who oversees the wine production of both estates, Marjolaine’s priority is to preserve and strengthen their distinct personalities. “These two wines speak to two different consumers and their strength lies precisely in their individuality. Safeguarding these identities is essential to ensuring their relevance and success over the next decade. I see myself as custodian of that long-term vision,” she states.

Marquis d’Alesme is a 15-hectare vineyard consisting solely Grand Cru terroirs and therefore produces only its Grand Cru. Labegorce Margaux covers a larger area (70 hectares) of the Margaux terroir and thus has to accept producing both first and second wines, but always with the consumer’s enjoyment and value for money as the top priority.

Eyes on India

During their visit to India, Marjolaine and her team experienced an extraordinary moment of connection with knowledgeable guests who were eager to learn about the estates’ history and wines. “We must move forward in the Indian market and remain at your service,” she affirms.

This first-hand experience of how Indian consumers see quality wine and their preferences has convinced her that India is witnessing a clear premiumisation trend, driven by a growing HNI base and rising purchasing power. “To succeed, we must work together to understand each other and find the keys to entering the Indian markets,” she adds. Succinctly put, wine is, ultimately, about sharing, culture and pleasure; what the French call, ‘a Proustian madeleine,’ and this is what Marjolaine wishes to bring to India.